AMI-SIL Fabricating Guidelines
Tools
- Needle – 16 to 18 gauge
- Thread – .016 to .021 inch
- Stitch – 4-8 stitches per inch
- Foot Pressure – Medium to heavy
- Thread Tension – Balance upper and lower tension to produce a firm stitch
Construction
- Seams
- 1/2″ wide
- Top stitch seams when possible
- Lock seam if available
- Hems
- Fold over once
- Hem all edges including the selvage
- Grommets
- Reinforce with scrap cloth or a leather washer, if necessary
Fabric Damage and/or Abrasion?
- Too large needle
- Too small thread diameter
- Too heavy, or too light, foot pressure
- Stitching over the edge of the hem
- Back stitching too near the edge
- Too tight grommets
Weak Seams?
- Too many stitches per inch may cut fabric
- Too tight stitches may cut fabric
- Too loose stitches may be damaged by light abrasion
- Unbalanced top and bobbin tension
Uneven or Skipped Stitches?
- Too light foot pressure
- Incorrect needle size
- Debris between top tension discs &/or in the tension spring of the bobbin case
Thread Damage and/or Breakage?
- Too tight top, or bobbin, tension
- Incorrect needle installation
- Incorrect needle size
- Thread is too thick for the needle
- Rough edges on the tensioning devices, thread guides, throat plate, eyelet or point of needle
- Deferred maintenance (keep machine well oiled)
ALL STATEMENTS HEREIN ARE EXPRESSIONS OF OPINION WHICH WE BELIEVE TO BE ACCURATE AND RELIABLE BUT ARE PRESENTED WITHOUT GUARANTEE OR RESPONSIBILITY ON OUR PART. ANYONE INTENDING TO USE RECOMMENDATIONS CONTAINED IN THIS PUBLICATION CONCERNING EQUIPMENT, PROCESSING TECHNIQUES OR PRODUCTS SHOULD FIRST SATISFY HIMSELF THAT THE RECOMMENDATIONS ARE SUITABLE FOR HIS USE AND MEET ALL APPROPRIATE SAFETY AND HEALTH STANDARDS.