Tools

• Needle - 16 to 18 gauge
• Thread - .016 to .021 inch.
• Stitch - 4-8 stitches per inch
• Foot Pressure - Medium to heavy
• Thread Tension - Balance upper and lower tension to produce a firm stitch.

Construction

Seams

• 1/2" wide
• Top stitch seams when possible
• Lock seam if available

Hems

• Fold over once
• Hem all edges including the selvage

Grommets

• Reinforce with scrap cloth or a leather washer, if necessary

Fabric Damage and/or Abrasion?

• too large needle
• too small thread diameter
• too heavy, or too light, foot pressure
• stitching over the edge of the hem
• back stitching too near the edge
• too tight grommets

Weak Seams?

• too many stitches per inch may cut fabric
• too tight stitches may cut fabric
• too loose stitches may be damaged by light abrasion
• unbalanced top and bobbin tension

Uneven or Skipped Stitches?

• too light foot pressure
• incorrect needle size
• debris between top tension discs &/or in the tension spring of the bobbin case

Thread Damage and/or Breakage?

• too tight top, or bobbin, tension
• incorrect needle installation
• incorrect needle size
• thread is too thick for the needle
• rough edges on the tensioning devices, thread guides, throat plate, eyelet or point of needle
• deferred maintenance (keep machine well oiled)